MK Gully | Remarkables
- Mike Morelli
- Aug 2
- 3 min read
Updated: Sep 29
Date: August 3, 2025
Location: The Remarkables, Queenstown, Otago, New Zealand
Total Trip Distance: 3.3 mi / 5.3 km
Total Elevation Gain: 1,932 ft / 589 m
Trip Duration: 7 hours
Team: Emilie Agnew
Field Notes: The classic M3 route on the West Face. 150 meters, 4 pitches. Bring a full trad rack.
Rating: M3
The West Face of the Remarkables has always held some sort of mythical allure for me. Almost every day I stare at it, knowing it holds quality climbing, yet I’ve never ventured out there.
This winter has seen a disappointing amount of snowfall so far - so disappointing that it has led me to question how much longer I will stay here.
One benefit of this, at least in winter, is that low snowfall means other opportunities open up, such as mixed climbing.
Emilie and I were fresh off our respective ice and mixed climbing clinics and wanted to get stuck in. Kevin’s knee has still been bothering him since Headlong Peak, so it was just us two.
The forecast was meant to be stunning and avalanche conditions were virtually non-existent.
Our choice for the day was the M3 classic - MK Gully. We decided to skin up to Shadow Basin, stashing the ski kit and transitioning to climbing boots.
Walking around the West Face and seeing the extreme drop-offs reminded me of why conditions need to be perfect back here. Any mistake would result in severe consequences.
Emilie led out on pitch 1 - one of the cruxes of the route. It was a full body length step, which was awkward, but was made all the more difficult with spin drift pouring down in her face.
Eventually, she got through it and brought me up. I led out on the second pitch which was just a steep snow climb and apologized at the lack of protection I placed when Emilie rejoined me.
Swapping leads again, Emilie led out through another rock step until she set up a belay at an awesome ledge in the sun. It had been an epic day out so far, and we were frothing.
I took over for the last pitch. I made a start up a snowy gully until getting to a rock step at the top out.
One of my favorite things about mixed climbing is the art of using tools, hands, and crampons. At one moment, you hook a tool behind a rock. The right foot steps up. You leave the tool and place your hand on another rock. The crampon on the left foot finds a crack.
Although I was in a no-fall zone, climbing at somewhere around my technical ability, I was in the zone. Fully immersed in the moment. This last crux had great protection, so I plugged a bunch of gear, mantled, and topped out.
I left out a shout of satisfaction as I stepped into the afternoon sun. Finally on top, I built an anchor and brought Emilie up.
We were absolutely buzzing and the only thing we could think about was doing another route!
After a bite to eat, we walked back down to our gear and skied back to the car. I can see why this route is a classic.
Happy days...
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