Second Gully

Date: February 5, 2026

Location: San Juan Mountains, Eureka, Colorado, USA

Team: Steven Van Sickle

Field Notes: The classic WI3 route of the area. A standard ice rack and a 60/70m rope will do. The anchors are bolted, and descent is via a walk-off to the climber's right down a snow-filled gully.

Second Gully

---

Although it’s been a warm season in Ouray and the Ice Park is having one of its worst seasons ever, the backcountry ice in the area has been on point. In fact, Eureka has been having a great season.

I’d been wanting to get down to this zone ever since I discovered how good the ice climbing is around Ouray.

Looking across the valley. The famous Stairway to Heaven on the left.

Being relatively new to leading on ice, I was looking for routes that would allow me to build skills and confidence. Steven suggested we climb Second Gully and Tempered by Fire.

When we pulled into the parking lot, there were only a few cars there. We got straight to it and headed toward Second Gully, as it’s one of the more popular lines.

We racked up, tied in, and I started off on lead. In fact, I lead the whole climb as Steven was stoked for me to get as much lead volume as possible.

Second Gully is your classic stepped, moderate gully with a few body-length steeper sections. I found it quite straightforward, and Steven practically ice-skated up behind me. That’s not to say it wasn’t fun — it absolutely was. It was exactly the confidence-inspiring climb I was looking for.

Leading out on the third pitch of Second Gully.

Steven climbing Second Gully

One of the steeper sections on Second Gully

And as a bonus, the ice was absolutely bomber. Steven said it was some of the fattest he has ever seen for that climb.

I really enjoy multi-pitch climbing and the efficiency that comes with it. Steven’s résumé is pretty much insane, and I was able to learn a lot just by climbing alongside him. I always appreciate being around climbers who’ve been in the game for a long time and still carry genuine stoke.

At the top, we descended via an easy snow-filled gully with just one slightly awkward move. Before we knew it, we were back in the sun, scoping out our next line for the day.

Happy days...