Cleft Peak & Mount Cunningham
- Mike Morelli
- 6 days ago
- 4 min read
Date: March 22 - 23, 2026
Location: Richardson Mountains, Mount Aspiring National Park, Otago, New Zealand
Team: Solo
Field Notes: Two fun climbs at the head of the Rees Valley. To climb Cunningham, I used the low angled SW Couloir, where I only needed light spikes on my hiking shoes. For Cleft Peak, climb an awesome slab at around grade 10. It is not protectable. Great camping exists around the 1,100 meter contour below Cunningham. The rock quality in this range is terrible, and a helmet is strongly recommended.
My last night in the Southern Alps treated me to something special. I was nestled into my sleeping bag, eyes darting up to the sky, staring at a miraculous set of stars.
Over the last two years here I have done close to one-hundred trips in the mountains. Many of those trips were spent with a night out, and in many cases, multiple nights out. Why was it then that the best night of stars I have ever seen were on this night? The final night?
Half of me was beyond grateful, the other half wishing I had someone to share it with. Unfortunately, that has been the theme throughout my time in New Zealand.
I hosted a final friends gathering the night prior to connect with the people who meant the most to me. In the peak of the night, I took a moment to look around. What struck me was that not a single person there was a climbing partner.
In many ways, many of the relationships I felt that I had poured so much energy and time with had not come to their potential.
I reflected on this under the stars, and realized that in my effort in the search for reliable climbing partners, it was not all for nothing. There was real potential with Rob, and I'm grateful that my best trips here were with him.
I tried to sleep unsuccessfully. Now my mind was racing and I wanted it to be early enough so I could start making coffee and make my ascent of Cleft Peak. But it was only two in the morning...
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The previous day had been brilliant. My friend Tim let me borrow his Suzuki Jimny and I drove up the Rees Valley 4wd track, crossing rivers all along the way.
I made quick work up to Shelter Rock Hut, taking only two hours, and continued up the valley where I dumped my gear for camp that night. Looking up at Cunningham, I wondered how steep the couloir would get.
I launched uphill, energized by great weather and the call of the Kea. As I got higher, the couloir was as tame as it gets, and light spikes and hiking poles are all that is needed (at this time of the year). That said, there is other danger here. As I climbed higher, a burst of rock fall dislodged from above and crashed into the couloir.
Topping out, the view from the summit was powerful. Three-hundred-and-sixty degree views in all directions. Everything from Aspiring, The Snowdrift Range, The Barrier Range, Earnslaw, and beyond. I sat in silence for a few moments enjoying the spectacular scenery - the best of the trip.
The body makes the call and it wanted to move, and a few minutes later I was off, bounding downhill straight for camp and a hot dinner
--
At somewhere around five in the morning I was too restless and wanted to go, so I slowly started to boil water. Hot coffee and breakfast started up my engine, and about an hour later I left camp.
I started back down the Rees Valley until crossing a stream and choosing a spur that headed up towards Point 1992. The terrain here for the first four hundred meters is thick tussock country.
Breaking free from the tussock, I climbed scree slopes until around the 1800 meter mark where it became quite loose. Ideally, stay on the southern side of Point 1992 as the northern end is steeper, with huge, unstable blocks of rock.
I topped out along the ridge where I was greeted by the early morning sun and easily sidled under Point 1992 on the southern end. Then I headed straight for Cleft Peak. It's best to stay about fifty or so meters off of the ridgeline as you approach the final summit slopes for easiest travel.
Finally under the West Face, I was excited for the exposed scramble to the top. The guidebook mentions the grade is around rock 10, and unprotectable. In my experience, this was dead on. The crack provides solid, enjoyable climbing with great exposure.
In many ways, this reminded me of the final summit climb to the summit of Mount Avalanche along the West Ridge.
At the summit, the views towards Lake Lochnagar are brilliant. And of course, looking towards Headlong Peak and the remote Snowy Creek. I snapped a few photos and decided to keep moving. The wind was up and and there was enough chill in the air to keep me moving.
I carefully down-climbed the slab, meticulous with every movement. On my descent, I decided to explore the route at the northern end of Point 1992. I would advise against this due to the nature of the rock, unless it was fully snow covered.
Back down in the valley, I took a final electrifying cold plunge in the Rees River, savoring the short lived pain that ran down to my bones. Looking around at so many peaks climbed, I was so grateful to these peaks.
--
Even though I am leaving, New Zealand feels like a second home to me. Over the last twelve years I have spent three and a half of them here - all of them well enjoyed.
There is so much I could write, but most of it has been said before on this blog. The Southern Alps are a powerful range. Remote, wild, majestic.
I am very grateful to the people who made it special and the experiences I've been able to have. For now, I'm heading back to the Tetons where world class alpine rock and ski mountaineering await.
Happy days...
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