THE APOGEE

Teewinot has always been a mountain that intimidated me. It’s direct, steep, and has seen plenty of accidents over the years. You can understand why. From the parking lot, you go straight up almost six thousand feet in just a few miles. As Evan and I plodded up the face, he kept telling me how stoked I was going to be to ski it someday. My eyes darted upward.

Just two weeks after completing the Durrance Ridge with Evan, I returned to Symmetry Spire with Charlie, stoked to try a different route. This season has been about sinking my teeth into moderate alpine trad and building a strong base so I can complete longer, more remote routes in the future.

This was the second time I’d been on the Jenny Lake boat this season, and I can now say that I am indeed a fan. Still traumatized by the long and punishing walk-ins while living in New Zealand, if I can cut out some walking, I will.

The last few days had been boiling hot. So hot, in fact, that Idaho Falls recorded its hottest temperature ever. The National Weather Service was telling people to stay indoors. We opted to do the opposite. Our plan was to climb the shady west face of Disappointment Peak. With an early start, we knew we’d stay out of the sun until the afternoon. Better yet, we’d finish the day with a swim in Amphitheater Lake.

I had wanted to ski the South Face of Mount Woodring ever since I stood on the summit of Rockchuck Peak many years ago. I dreamed of skiing this beautiful 2,000-foot fall line in perfect corn, straight down toward a frozen Holly Lake under a beaming blue sky. Maybe dreams come true...

For my first few weeks back in the Tetons, it’s been pretty damn good. I skied 4,000 feet of corn off Mount Saint John, had multiple powder days on Glory, and now found myself on another mission in the park with Charlie. The forecast called for warm weather, so we left Driggs at 4:00 a.m. We estimated about four hours to the summit of The Jaw, which would put us skiing by around 10:30.

A twenty-four-hour flight, five days in Salt Lake, and a four-hour drive later, I was finally back in the Tetons. Packing, unpacking, selling a car, buying a new one, and all the mental load that comes with moving from the bottom of the world had finally caught up with me.

Climbing two peaks on my last trip in the Southern Alps for awhile.

An epic day of alpine climbing high on the North Ridge of Bonpland.

Skiing the iconic Somnus Couloir in boot-deep powder with Rob.

A quick ski of the Grand Couloir before the snow melts out.

Climbing and skiing the North Face of Mount Aurora from Centennial Hut.

Skiing the icy West Face of the Minarets in otherwise perfect conditions.

Warm conditions led to an aborted attempt on the North East Face of Mount Humdinger.

A beautiful sunrise climb of Lendenfeld Peak from Marcel Col.

Climbing and skiing Glacier Peak with an aborted attempt on Douglas Peak.

A 1,200-meter ski descent from the summit to the valley floor.

The first climbing trip of winter with perfect weather and perfect views.

A speedy climb of Mount Tyndall on a breathless day up the West Matukituki.

A day mission to climb the fun slabs on the South West Face of Emily Peak.