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Mount French

  • Writer: Mike Morelli
    Mike Morelli
  • Jan 28, 2015
  • 3 min read

Date: January 28 - 29, 2015

Location: Main Divide, Bonar Glacier, Mount Aspiring National Park, Otago, New Zealand

Total Trip Distance: 27 mi / 43.45 km

Total Elevation Gain: 8,861 ft / 2,701 m

Trip Duration: 2 days

Team: Sam Gallup

Field Notes: Mount French is a simple peak with a spectacular view. From French Ridge Hut, climb to the top of the Quarterdeck. Then head Northwest along the snowy ridge to the summit. The Quarterdeck may become impassable in late season.

Grade: II, 1


Mount French Route Topo Guide Map Download
Mount French Route Topo

Authors Note: This is a trip report from 2015. Please note the beta provided is relevant and up to date.


The early days of mountaineering were something so special. Every trip felt like a grand adventure and a quest into the unknown.


Our first real attempt to climb Mount French wasn't even an attempt. Ignorant to how dramatic the weather is in New Zealand, we drove up the West Matukituki in a torrential rainstorm. We got as far as the first ford on the road and turned around.


I think if we had somehow gotten to Raspberry Flat, the trip would have been a disaster.


Mount Aspiring and Popes Nose from Quarterdeck Pass
Mount Aspiring and Popes Nose from Quarterdeck Pass

Fast forward a month, and better weather arrived. We decided on having a second go on Mount French - a perfect entry level peak for any aspiring mountaineer.


I still remember the walk up the West Matukituki. Massive peaks towered above, beech forest, a clear blue river. The sun beamed down. All of our senses were engaged and all emotions were felt - joy, fear, uncertainty, excitement...


I vividly recall the surprised look of tourists to see people walking with ropes and ice axes on their bags - it made me feel like such a badass at the time. Twenty-two years old and trying to show people I had it all figured out.


Truth be told I didn't have a fucking clue. Thirty-four years old writing this now and I still don't. The difference is that when you're young, you really think you know something. As you grow older, you realize that you really don't know anything.


Time and life experience have a great way of teaching you that.


Sunset from French Ridge Hut. From L to R: Mount Barff, Matukituki Saddle, Mount Bevan, & Mount Joffre
Sunset from French Ridge Hut. From L to R: Mount Barff, Matukituki Saddle, Mount Bevan, & Mount Joffre

That night at French Ridge Hut was spiritual. I listened to my favorite album at the time, Lonesome Dreams by Lord Huron, and connected with the mountain gods. It's crazy writing this ten years later that I would go on to climb all of the peaks within my surrounding view.


I stood along the ridge, watching the sunset, tears in my eyes, feeling overwhelmed with the power of the mountain environment.


The next morning we woke early and climbed through the cut up Quarterdeck and stood breathless as we got our first ever view of the Bonar Glacier and Mount Aspiring.


The summit ridge of Mount French
The summit ridge of Mount French

My favorite moment was walking along the summit ridge of Mount French, feeling like a real mountaineer. At the time, this was what I dreamed about. It is still what I dream about. We shared the summit stoke together, and I thought this was going to be the beginning of a lifelong climbing partnership. After all, Sam was the one who came up with the idea of moving to New Zealand.


But while my heart was filled with the love and passion for the high peaks, little did I know the love of Sam's life was sitting at our share-house back in town, waiting for him to come home.


Ten years later, they are married with a family. Ten years later, I'm still chasing the high peaks.


Sam and I on the summit of Mount French
Sam and I on the summit of Mount French

The key is that you find love, or whatever word you want to use, in whatever you do. People, places, things...


Happy days...

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