Mount Humdinger Attempt

Date: November 4, 2025

Location: Fox Glacier, Main Divide Range, Westland National Park, New Zealand

Total Trip Distance: 4.2 mi / 6.8 km

Total Elevation Gain: 1,435 ft / 437 m

Trip Duration: 6 hr 27 min

Team: Kevin Reid, Emilie Agnew

Field Notes: The North East Face is potentially steeper and harder than other similarly graded routes out there. Bring two tools, snow pickets, some ice screws, and a light trad rack. We encountered alpine ice on the route and bailed very close to the top under rapidly warming conditions.

Grade: II, 2+

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After our climb of Lendenfeld Peak, the freezing level shot up. Ella, Louis, and Patrick were keen to ski over to Centennial Hut. This left Emilie, Kevin, and me with a day to climb something. The only problem was figuring out what. Many routes were either out of condition or plastered in rime ice.

Kevin and Emilie came up with a great idea: climb a route on Humdinger.

Originally, we thought about the Couloir Route next to the North Rib, but instead opted for something that felt a touch more manageable — the Northeast Face.

The Northeast face of Mount Humdinger

We set off relatively early and reached the base of the climb right around sunrise. We brought a few screws, a light trad rack, and snow pickets. As we approached, the line looked pretty damn steep.

To gain the Northeast Face, you start by climbing a steep headwall — arguably the steepest part of the day.

We all soloed it and it was good practice. Although most people tend to overestimate slope angles (myself included), this one genuinely sat somewhere in the 55+ degree range; by the top our bodies felt close to vertical. And no, I'm not exaggerating!

We topped out on the headwall and began the main climb. It was already warm, and expectations were naturally starting to shift. The day was cloudy and socked in, giving everything a soft, muted feel. As we continued, we immediately ran into sections of low-grade alpine ice. The climbing was easy enough — maybe 40 degrees — but a fall unroped would have been disastrous.

At the top of the first pitch, Kevin placed a couple of screws and built an anchor. Once we clipped in, it was unanimous: it was time to go down. We were close to the top, but conditions were too warm. No regrets, no second-guessing.

Kevin belaying Emilie down the face

The face was icy, with rime formations looming above us, and everything was warming quickly. Climbing a solar aspect early in the morning while everything is already heating up — with ice overhead — is not a great recipe. The call was easy.

We belayed each other down, practicing rope techniques and careful down climbing, and made our way off the mountain safely. We timed it perfectly. Near the bottom, small bits of ice were already beginning to come down from above.

Looking down The Northeast face of Mount Humdinger

I think this trip was one of the most valuable experiences of the entire trip. We made good decisions together. Everyone kept a cool head. And most importantly, we all walked back into the hut feeling upbeat and proud of how we managed the day.

It was a fun climb — short, thoughtful, and memorable. I’d love to return for another go at the Northeast Face or even the Couloir Route when conditions are better.

Happy days...