Southwest Ridge, Symmetry Spire
- Mike Morelli
- 7 days ago
- 5 min read
Date: July 31, 2026
Location: Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming, USA
Team: Charlie Pirc
Field Notes: Another classic route on Symmetry Spire. We did it in 5 pitches with a 60m rope, and carried a standard rack with extras of .3 - 2. Route finding is straight forward by following your nose and staying on the climbers right side of the crest.
Just two weeks after completing the Durrance Ridge with Evan, I returned to Symmetry Spire with Charlie, stoked to try a different route.
This season has been about sinking my teeth into moderate alpine trad and building a strong base so I can complete longer, more remote routes in the future.
Symmetry Spire has tons of great routes, and with a relatively easy alpine approach, it opens up a world of possibilities.
The morning felt eerily similar to just two weeks earlier—stinking hot and sweating through my eyeballs on the approach. Charlie and I stopped at the usual water fill-up spot, and I dunked my head in the stream in an attempt to lower my core temperature.
I looked around as we both chugged water like lost desert wanderers who had stumbled upon an oasis. Thankfully, we were the only people out there that day.
When I returned to the Tetons, many people told me it had “gotten crowded.” I’m not sure I’ve seen that yet.
Yes, there are a lot more tourists than I remember. But for one of America’s premier alpine climbing destinations, I’ve only shared a route once in five trips so far this summer. I imagine it would be quite different if we were climbing the Grand. But as I look at the climbing guidebook on my kitchen table this morning, I can’t help but wonder how much of an issue crowds really are when there are more than 1,000 routes in the range.
An hour and forty-five minutes after leaving the boat, we stood drenched in sweat beneath the stunning Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire and ducked into the shade.
I led the first pitch, which consisted of a beautiful, easy crack to the left of a tree. After about thirty feet of climbing, I scrambled through fourth-class terrain until I reached a ledge beside an open-book corner system.
Charlie followed quickly and started up the second pitch.
It’s been fantastic watching him progress this season. Back in May, I remember him being quite nervous on his trad leads at City of Rocks. Now, just a few months later, he’s tackling harder pitches in the alpine and loving it.
He worked his way up the corner, solving problems and looking strong. As I followed, I understood why he was enjoying it so much. Aside from a few loose blocks—which should be expected in the alpine—the climbing was fantastic. Sound rock, good holds, and lots of variety.
At the third pitch, which may be considered the crux of the route, I had two options. To the left was a 5.7 dihedral and to the right a 5.6 crack.
I started up the dihedral, looked around for gear placements, and didn’t find anything confidence-inspiring. The only protection I found was two broken pins, so I opted for the crack instead.
Above the initial crux, there was more low fifth-class terrain until I reached another obstacle. In front of me was a yellow slab with an old pin or two hammered into it.
I made the first move onto the slab and immediately knew it was going to be delicate climbing. Not trusting old pins that had been sitting there for five decades, I managed to place a small stopper in a thin crack as backup.
I moved my feet up a few inches, wondering where my hands were going to go. I could feel my pulse quickening and reminded myself to breathe.
As I searched around, I found something positive on the left edge of the slab. My eyes darted around the corner, where I spotted a solid left foothold. I gained a few more feet. Now a left hand opened up above me.
Grabbing it, I was able to secure my right hand on the rock and make a large friction move up and to the right.
Now feeling well above my gear, I made one final diagonal move to higher ground, where my feet landed on a small ledge and I was finally off the slab.
To me, this felt like the true crux of the route, and I was stoked to arrive at a comfortable belay ledge—just as I ran out of rope.
Charlie breezed up the third pitch and joined me at the belay.
Our transitions were becoming faster and more organized. Boom—Charlie was off.
The fourth pitch began with a bulge and a big move right off the belay. Again, I was stoked to see Charlie loving it. It seemed like his confidence grew with every move. This pitch may have had the best sustained climbing of the entire route: a roof pull, an interesting corner system, and then a black face.
This is what alpine climbing is all about - amazing rock, four thousand feet above the valley floor, with massive peaks towering above us.
At the fifth pitch, we hoped it would be the last.
I looked up and was surprised at how steep it appeared. I could feel that small inkling of anxiety that reminds you not to get overconfident.
I started up a right-trending ramp until I reached steeper ground. Wondering if I was still on route, I found an old pin and a stuck nut—confirmation that I was exactly where I needed to be.
Higher up, I could see the top-out. A beautiful 5.6 corner led toward a massive flake—some of the most impressive climbing on the route. I stood beneath it on a small ledge and started upward.
I was getting close to the end of the rope, and the rope drag was becoming annoying. I stopped to assess.
There was no reason to combine excessive rope drag with limited rope. I had a perfect belay ledge. And secondly, why not hand the reins to Charlie?
He’d get a third lead, and I knew it would bring him immense joy to take us to the top.
I radioed down to Charlie, “Off belay.”
He was surprised at first. He thought he was finished with his leads for the day.
Leading—especially in the alpine—is a mindset.
Self-aware, he caught himself at the belay feeling slightly reluctant to lead again. Then he switched gears. As soon as he placed the first piece, the hesitation disappeared, replaced by stoke as he realized he was climbing a world-class top-out.
The entire route took us a little over four hours from the first pitch to the last. I was thrilled with how well we were climbing together.
I can’t emphasize enough how grateful I am to have climbing partners who are fit, share similar goals, have experience, are dialed, and most importantly—committed.
Another brilliant climb.
Straightforward for the grade, fantastic climbing throughout, and a finish on one of the most awe-inspiring summits in the range.
Happy days...
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